Copenhagen
I was born in Copenhagen and spent the first few years living in this yellow building in Nyhavn. My mother is Danish so we visit family about five times a year just north of Copenhagen, in Humlebæk, where Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located. Every summer I make sure to spend at least one full day in Copenhagen exploring and discovering new places and revisiting old favourites. Before 2020 became lockdown year, I had plans to take my friends to the city and show them around, so this is the list of places that we would have eaten and visited. The journey must start with a traditional Danish “en med det hele” hot-dog; if you say that famous phrase to the hotdog vendor you get a hotdog with ketchup, mustard, toasted onion, raw onion, pickled cucumbers and the very Danish sauce “Remoulade”, which is akin to tartar sauce but even more delicious.
TO EAT/DRINK:
Atelier September - Gothersgade 30, 1123 København
Atelier September is a café started by well-known chef Frederik Bille Brahe, designed to bring people together over “simple everyday food built on the principles of fine-dining” and cosy cups of coffee. They’re best known for their avocado on rye (some say the “trend” originated here) and Kyoto-style sliced grapefruit topped simply with fresh mint. The space features a long communal table, inviting social interaction, as well as window seats perfect for people-watching on Gothersgade. The back room also hosts pop-ups from creatives.
Mikkeller Brewery - Viktoriagade 8 B-C, 1655 København
Mikkeller is my favourite craft-beer brewery, started by Mikkel Borg Bjergsø (fun fact: his twin brother owns another brewery called Evil Twin), and this bar in Copenhagen was its first site. Each beer is expertly crafted with no cost spared on the myriad of flavour experiments using fantastic raw materials such as raspberries, ancho chillies, yuzu and beetroots. In addition, the branding is playful, humorous and incredibly collectable - with glasses, can labels and prints by Keith Shore (you can buy them here: https://www.mikkellereditions.com/ ) I’ve followed them around the world, from Japan to Barcelona and luckily they opened a permanent space in London last year (Rick Astley performed at the opening). They now also have a shop at Copenhagen airport, ready for that pre-flight dutch courage and/or to take some of the cans home.
Lille Bakery - Refshalevej 213A, 1432 København
A little cycle or bus ride out of the main city, Lille Bakery (currently operating as Lille Grocery throughout lockdown) is a wonderful community bakery and eatery. Sit in the balcony area and get a bird’s-eye-view of the busy bakers, while eating their freshly-baked goods with a filter coffee. We had a raspberry-sugar-dusted berliner doughnut, a fennel-sausage roll, and a typical bread roll with Danish cheese. Simple and hyggeligt. They also do themed supper-clubs and communal Friday dinners.
Apollo Bar & Kantine - Nyhavn 2, 1051 København *Photos by Ditte Isager and Apollo Instagram
Set within the palatial courtyard of the Contemporary Art Museum, Kunsthal Charlottenborg, Apollo Bar & Kantine are an attempt, again by chef Frederik Bille Brahe, to uplift and regenerate the concept of a museum café. The interior was designed by Rune Bruun Johansen, filling the light, high-ceilinged rooms full of fun elements such classical sculptures and chairs (Børge Mogensen’s ‘J39’ chairs) up-cycled from the art-school next door. In the largest room, which houses Apollo Kantine, seasonal vegetarian food is served from Tuesday to Friday, with one dish on the menu per day. This is meant to provide a healthy, cheap and therefore accessible meal for the students at the academy, as well as anyone who wants to join in. We ate at the bar, and the uncomplicated menu is full of exciting, fresh and seasonal ingredients. We shared a selection of small plates, three of which are pictured above: pickled pumpkin salad, Swedish hand peeled shrimps on sourdough with yuzu mayonnaise and dill, and fried herring served with crème-fraiche, pickled onions and toasted buckwheat. All complemented by a small glass of cold pilsner. Cultural events such as jazz festivals, design shows, fashion-week dinners, flea markets and talks are often held in the spaces, bringing together food and art forms.
Torvehallerne - Frederiksborggade 21, 1360 København K
Designed by architect Hans Hagens, Torvehallerne is a buzzing indoor marketplace, housing both fresh produce and food vendors such as “Hija de Sanchez”, a stand with incredible, home-made corn tacos.
@torvehallernekbh @hijadesanchez
Sonny CPH - Rådhusstræde 5, 1466 København
Organic kitchen, serving up speciality coffee, healthy salads, open sandwiches and sweet treats.
Brus - Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København
Brus (which aptly means sparkling/carbonated/fizzy) is a brewpub, bottle-shop and restaurant from the people behind the “To Øl” brewery. It’s exciting to sit in a space where the beer you are drinking was brewed in the huge tanks only ten metres away.
Juno Bakery - Århusgade 48, 2100 København, Denmark
I’ve not visited the shop itself yet, but a good friend once delivered their cardamom buns for afternoon tea at my grandparents house and I have never tasted such a pure, doughy delight.
Aamanns - Øster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 København
For a traditional Danish open sandwich and schnapps experience.
Bæst - Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København
From the owners of Michelin-starred restaurant Relæ, and restaurant and wine bar Manfreds, Bæst (which translates to “beast”) is an organic, Italian-inspired restaurant in Nørrebro. Their focus is on using the best produce that Danish farmers can offer and presenting them in their Italian-inspired menu. For example, above the restaurant is a micro-dairy, where they make fior-di-latte (used as mozzarella) from biodynamic Danish cows milk. The restaurant also has its own bakery “Mirabelle”.
Slurp Ramen - Nansensgade 90, 1366 København
I’ve never had ramen in Copenhagen, but after reading reviews this is definitely on the list for next time!
Papirøen
Papirøen (Paper Island) in Christianshavn was a fantastic food market housed in huge industrial buildings near the water. I was going to recommend going to eat, but apparently it’s been closed down with plans for development. The new plans are for a cultural centre with a swimming pool, designed by Japanese Architect Kengo Kuma and expected top open in 2021. I thought I’d include this anyway as it will be interesting to see how it develops!!
TO DO / SEE:
Nyhavn
Nyhavn is the waterfront district in Copenhagen which stretches from Kongens Nytorv to Skuespilhuset (the Royal Playhouse) on the harbour front, and features the brightly coloured 17th/18th century houses that so many people take photos of. Like everywhere it has become more and more touristy, but I would still recommend hopping on a canal tour boat from here to see the city from the water, and then enjoy a take-away beer from one of the bars while sitting along the pier.
Design Museum Denmark - Bredgade 68, 1260 København
An inspiring and educational museum which exhibits a broad scope of Danish and international design and crafts from the late Middle Ages to today, ranging from furniture, textiles and graphic design to fashion, glass and ceramics, Danish design has played a significant role in design history, and the museum emphasises this with featured works by designers such as Arne Jacobsen, Finn Juhl, Nanna Ditzel and Hans Wegner. The building itself, an old hospital, was regenerated by Danish furniture designer Kaare Klint in 1926. The Danish Chair exhibition (which I think is permanent) is a wonderful cabinet of curiosities, recognising the significance of the chair as a pioneering object in Danish design history, alongside many influential chair designers such as Charles and Ray Eames.
Statens Museum for Kunst - Sølvgade 48-50, 1307 København K
The grand architecture and high-ceiling rooms at Statens Museum for Kunst (the National Gallery of Denmark) house an extensive collection of Danish and international art from the 14th century to the present day. The collection ranges from European Renaissance classics to contemporary art, with pieces by Edvard Munch, Emil Nolde, Vilhelm Hammershøj and Marina Abramovic to name a few. Whilst I often read about the history of Danish design, my visits with my grandfather to Statens Museum for Kunst spark an interest in the historical narrative and masters of Danish Golden Age art, and I am always left speechless by the comprehensive exhibition of work by my favourite artist, Matisse.
Make time to visit the SMK Cafe, another of Frederik Bille Brahe’s projects aiming to bring art and food together, improve the standard of museum food and invite a wider audience into museum spaces. The interior is designed in collaboration with artist Danh Vo and features Italian designer Enzo Mari’s DIY “Autoprogettazione” furniture, sculptural lamps from Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi and oak floorboards from Danish brand Dinesen. As with his other ventures, the menu focuses on seasonal, organic and local produce as well as baked goods from its own in-house bakery.
Kunsthal Charlottenborg - Kongens Nytorv 1, 1050 København
Kunsthal Charlottenborg is one of the largest exhibition spaces for contemporary art in Northern Europe, housed in a dutch-inspired baroque palace, and is the official gallery for the Royal Danish Academy of Art. Their exhibition programme is always very varied, featuring both Danish and international works and new talent as well as established artists, and is enriched by a busy schedule of lectures, film-screenings and performances. The bookshop is also fantastic.
Strøget - Frederiksberggade,1459 København K
Strøget is the main shopping street in Copenhagen and is fully pedestrianised. A few of my favourites sit on this street and I often travel with an empty suitcase to fit in all the goodies to return with: Established in 1890, Magasin is the oldest department store in Scandinavia, and is a treat to visit. Make sure you scout out the food hall in the basement and buy some Sommerbird “Flødeboller” (chocolate-covered marshmallow cakes with marzipan bases). Nørgaard på Strøget is known for their iconic stripy tops, designed in 1967 by Jørgen Nørgaard, knitted and sewn in Denmark and worn by everyone. HAY House is the main store of the product brand which aims to produce high-quality and affordable everyday objects for the spaces that we inhabit, working to elevate small moments of life. They often collaborate with exciting designers such as Clara Von Zweigbergk , the Bouroullec Brothers and Inga Sempé. The little vignettes that they set-up with their products in the shop are very appealing, and I dare you to leave without buying something. Søstrene Grene is another object-based shop that I love- full of homeware, craft materials, and food.
@magasin @norgaardpaastroget @haydesign @sostrenegrene
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek - Dantes Plads 7, 1556 København
This museum was founded by the brewer Carl Jacobsen (Carlsberg), who used the profits from the brewery to fund his avid collection of cultural artefacts. It houses over 10,000 works including ancient antiquities. The “Winter Garden” in the main atrium is magnificent - an architectural oasis filled with plants, and a special place to sit, breathe and enjoy the peace in the midst of a busy sight-seeing day. (Free on Tuesdays).
Tivoli Gardens - Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 København V
Tivoli is an amusement park and gardens which first opened in 1843 and so is the second-oldest amusement park in the world, once enjoyed by the likes of Hans Christian Andersen and Walt Disney. The rides are perfect for thrill-seekers, but for those who don’t enjoy the rush, there are slower, more nostalgic rides, and the grounds are also magical to walk through, especially when decorated for various seasons. They also have a year-long musical program, including Tivoli’s Late Night Orchestra.
Runde Tårn - Købmagergade 52A, 1150 København
A good spot for the first day - the view from the top of the Round Tower helps give a sense of direction and highlights how the city is laid out, ready for exploring.
Christiania - Prinsessegade,1422 København K
Although a controversial area, Christiania, the free-town of Copenhagen, is worth visiting. Christiania is a community of about 1000 people which was started in 1971 when “hippies” broke through barriers into an abandoned piece of land, which was formerly a military base. The rules of Christiania are independent of the Danish Government, which has over time caused issues in regards to its “Pusher Street” where cannabis is openly sold. Many of the original inhabitants still live in the collective, and as many of them have built their own homes, the architecture of the area is fascinating. There are also various independent and experimental, restaurants, bars and music venues.
Etage Projects - Borgergade 15E, 1300 København
A great little gallery showing engaging contemporary art and design.
Assistens Kirkegård - Kapelvej 4, 2200 København N
Similar to highgate cemetery, Assistens Kirkegård is Denmark’s well-known burial ground featuring the graves of both everyday and famous Danes such as fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen and Golden Age painter Christoffer Wilhelm Eckersberg. Instead of the dreary, taboo-ridden associations that we have with cemeteries, this one is full of life. Come spring and summer, it is lush, green and full of flowers - an enchanting place to go for a walk. If you exit onto Jægersborggade, you can explore a range of very trendy shops, bars and cafés.
(And of course, if you have time to take the train out to Humlebæk, you have to visit Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, my absolute favourite place in the world. But I think I’ll dedicate a whole post to that).