Rome
Rome is a city that really encourages equal parts sight-seeing to eating; my favourite way of travelling. We visited the Italian capital for four days, and although it was not enough to get through the vast amount of museums, restaurants and historical sites, we explored a lot, and it gave us a desire to go back! We stayed in a modern airbnb right in the middle of Campo Di Fiori - quite a touristy area, but easy to get everywhere by foot. I always recommend spending the first day aimlessly wandering so that you can find your bearings, understand how the city connects and the general feeling of each area. Make sure you have a couple of good food places to aim for so you don’t end up making bad, hangry choices. It’s easy to get lost wandering along the windy Roman streets, looking up at all of the classical architecture and warm, rustic colours, all steeped in history.
TO EAT / DRINK:
Bar San Calisto - Piazza di S. Calisto, 3, 00153
Aperitivo hour is a sacred tradition in Italy - a wonderful way to reflect on your day with a refreshing drink and happy chatter. This bar was overflowing when we visited, but we managed to grab a table right in the corner where we could people-watch and attempt to feel like locals. Of course we went for an Aperol Spritz to add to the summery atmosphere.
Trattoria Da Augusto - Vicolo De' Renzi, 15, 00153
This was the culinary highlight of our trip. It was actually recommended by my grandfather who used to visit a lot when he was younger, so I was keen to see if it was still as good. It was. Delicious, local, seasonal and good-value lunch or supper. The limited menu for the day is explained and written out expressively on your paper tablecloth. No reservations and limited, so get there early (11ish) to start saving a spot. We shared: creamy cacio e pepe pasta, traditional tomato sauce pasta, a green bean salad with a tangy dressing, slow cooked beef ragu, freshly cooked artichokes, a pine-nut tart and a strawberry tart. Ask for a glass of house red wine and you will be set. One of the best meals of my lifetime.
Roscoli Caffe - Via Del Giubbonari 21-00186
Perfect breakfast stop where we convinced ourselves that traditional Maritozzi* Lenten buns (sweet buns filled with silky cream) were appropriate nourishment every morning. Although do note that Italians don’t dwell over breakfast - a quick stand-up coffee and sweet pastry and they’re out, so don’t take up too much space. Roscoli have three locations, this tiny cafe, a larger bakery/shop across the road and a restaurant/deli a few doors down. All worth visiting.
* According to Rachel Roddy in her Guardian article, “Maritozzi is an 18th-century name for a variant of quaresimali, split and filled with cream, which according to legend was given to girls by suitors to ensure they became their marito (husband).”
La Renella Forno Antico - Via del Moro, 15, 00153
Crispy pizza, almost like focaccia, sold by the slice. Our favourite was a plain tomato base with a chimichurri-esque parsley and garlic mix with lots of olive oil, or the slices with courgette flowers and fresh buffalo mozzarella. We sat in the sun on the steps in San Calisto square and devoured it all.
Forno Campo De Fiori - Piazza Campo de' Fiori, 22, 00186
This traditional bakery was two doors down from our accommodation, so we stocked up regularly on exploring snacks - potato focaccia and crumbly biscuits.
TO DO:
A few usual suspects before I divulge on my favourites of this trip: walk across the Tiber River, visit the Trevi fountain, enjoy the evening sunlight on the Spanish Steps, smell the wonderful produce at Campo Di Fiori, cycle around the Villa Borghese gardens, watch the rain fall through the Pantheon opening, and admire the Matisse Chapel at the Vatican Museums. Also, don’t forget to look down! As beautiful as everything at eye-level and above is, the Italians really knew (and still know) how to build beautiful floors. Each one is beautifully intricate, and made from incredible stone in mesmerising patterns.
Colosseum / Roman Forum / Palatine Hill
Although this is a touristy trio, these sites really bring Ancient Rome to life. Through its impressive structure, the 2000 year-old Colosseum arena builds a vivid image of gladiator battles; a very different time of entertainment and horrific class systems. To me, the Roman Forum was a little more interesting as it used to be the centre of everyday life, where people would gather for various political and social processions, speeches and events. It housed some of the most important architecture in the city, from temples and government buildings to statues and monuments. It was then abandoned during the Middle Ages and became known as the Campo Vaccino (Cow Field) and before being used in the Renaissance period as a quarry for stone and marble, until it was excavated in the 18th and 19th Centuries, uncovering the ruins displayed today. It feels like an archaeological walk, with hidden treasures to discover.
A standard ticket provides entrance to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, and it is valid for two days so you can take your time rather than trying to fit it all into one day. A tip is to buy tickets at Palatine Hill as it is a far shorter queue.
Galleria Doria Pamphilj - Via del Corso, 305, 00186
This was the best gallery that we visited - hidden and under the radar, it was wonderfully empty and so we were able to really enjoy one of Rome’s largest private art collections. Privately owned by the Doria Pamphilj family, the stately rooms are full of opulent furniture, lavish furnishings and extravagant artwork (featuring works by Caravaggio, Raphael and Titian to name a few), all collated by the family in the 18th Century. I like to explore museums at my own pace, so I usually decline audio tours, but the free guide available here really brought an incredible history to life with a personal narration by family member Prince Jonathan Doria-Pamphilj. He shares information about the collection, historical notes about the architecture and also personal anecdotes about family members and ancestors. It is wonderful.
Galleria Nazionale D’arte Moderna e Contemporanea - Viale delle Belle Arti, 131, 00197
This was a great rainy day find. The impressive building, the Palazzo delle Belle Arti (Palace of Fine Arts, built for the International Exhibition of Rome in 1911), houses thousands of works of Italian art from the 19th and 20th centuries from artists such as Umberto Boccioni and Amedeo Modigliani. The collection also includes contemporary and modern pieces from international artists such as Yves Klein and Piet Mondrian, beautifully exhibited in vast and naturally light rooms. I loved the work, of course, but my main highlight was the plinths that a lot of the work was presented on - amazing stonework! We waited for the rain to pass with a look through the bookshop and a warming coffee from the cafe. Despite the horrendous Brexit situation, we still managed to get through as 18-25 year old EU citizens so entry was only 2€.
Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars Capuchin Crypt - Via Vittorio Veneto, 27, 00187
Although rather morbid (and a little scary), this was quite an amazing experience. This heritage site features a series of underground chapels beneath the Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini church, which house, and are elaborately decorated with the bones of around 4000 people. The accompanying museum is very informative, and gives grounding to an otherwise macabre environment. “What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be.”